Pilgrimage to Israel

Last May, 400 Jewish college students around the United States, including myself and nine others from Vanderbilt, were given a chance to travel to Israel free of charge [see "Birthright," page 2]. Though I have traveled to Israel on three previous occasions, those trips were with my parents. The experience of exploring Israel -- a small country with a population of 5.6 million, 82 percent of whom are Jewish -- with Jewish contemporaries from Vanderbilt and other schools proved to be rewarding and enlightening.

For most students on our trip, there was a bit of culture shock at times while traveling through the country, as this was their first time in Israel. But when we arrived at Ben Gurion Airport, which is only 15 minutes outside of Tel Aviv, it seemed as if we were still in America, only with Hebrew street signs. The city of Tel Aviv is very modern and cosmopolitan. Because it's much like an American city in many ways, the organizers of the trip decided we would stay in the city for only a few hours. But during those few hours we went to two places that are special in the hearts of Israelis.

This huge stone tablet is part of Yad Vashem, a holocaust museum in west Jerusalem. The wall commemorates the Jewish communities destroyed by the Nazis in World War II.

The first stop on our trip was Independence Hall, where the Declaration of Independence for the state of Israel was signed. It was a very appropriate time for us to be there since it was the 52nd anniversary to the day that the declaration was signed. At first sight, it seemed we might be at the wrong place because the building was small, old and raggedy. But when we went inside, saw the actual chairs that the founding fathers of Israel sat in and the actual tables that were used, we knew we were in a special place. The museum guide explained that the Jews needed an inconspicuous place for the signing because of tensions between the surrounding states during the 1940s.

When Israel's national anthem played in Independence Hall, I felt a pride I had never felt before. As an American, I am always proud to hear "The Star-Spangled Banner" because I can recognize the feat of our founding fathers. However, the Israeli anthem evoked more personal emotions because of how recently the signing occurred and the fighting that still occurs. I was also deeply moved because my father was born in Tel Aviv only months before the signing.

Also in Tel Aviv, we went to the site where Yitzhak Rabin, the former prime minister of Israel, was assassinated. It was strange to go from one of the proudest places in Israeli history to one of the most somber within hours.

We spent the rest of the day traveling up the coast of the Mediterranean Sea. We made a few stops along the way and eventually came to our kibbutz -- a communal-type home -- in northern Israel, where we would stay for the next few days. We hiked nature trails, visited different borders between Israel, Syria and Lebanon, and took a Jeep tour through the Golan Heights.

Unlike Tel Aviv, this part of the country reminded us that we were far removed from America. Near the Israeli/Lebanese border, for instance, we could see fences with warning signs: "Danger: Mines."

The highlight of those few days, however, was kayaking down the Jordan River. The water was cold, but it gave our group a good opportunity to connect. Being from the South and going to school in Nashville, I had never had an opportunity to bond with people my age who were of my same culture and heritage. It is something that I thought was very special.

After leaving northern Israel, we made our way down the eastern border. We stopped in various places including the Israeli/Arab village of Zippori, which is also an archeological site dating back thousands of years to a time the Romans occupied Palestine. We also visited Safed, the city of mysticism, and the Ein Gedi, an oasis with magnificent waterfalls.

Our next destination was a small Bedouin campsite in the heart of the Negev Desert. Here we took camel rides, learned about living in the desert and camped for the night in tents. It was a great experience spending the night in the desert. The temperature cooled down nicely and the stars were as visible as I have ever seen them.

The next day may have been the most diverse, interesting and important of the trip. We awoke at 5:30 a.m. to climb Mount Masada. Since the desert gets very hot very quickly, a morning hike was the best option.

After our trip up and back down Masada, we went straight to the Dead Sea, which contains more than 25 minerals that can't be found anywhere else. The high salt content in the seawater caused us to float unlike ever before; it is virtually impossible to totally immerse oneself. After we finished mud baths on the banks following our floating session, we headed toward the holy city of Jerusalem, which has served as the Israeli capital since 1950. The United States, like most other countries, however, maintains its embassy in Tel Aviv.

Upon our arrival Friday afternoon, we headed straight for the Western Wall to observe the rabbis and others preparing for shabbat, which is the day of rest for practicing Jews. For most people on the trip, visiting the wall was special because it was their first time. For me, though, it was significant for different reasons. In the summer of 1994, I was at the Western Wall for my bar-mitzvah. To revisit where such an important religious event in my life took place is something that I can't explain in words. I could not control my emotions as I approached the wall to make a prayer. I can honestly say that it was one of the most inspirational and happy moments of my life.

The next morning, we were given time to relax and sleep in. Three others and myself decided to spend shabbat in Jerusalem. After permission was granted to break away from the group, we took a taxi into the city where we sought a synagogue to attend the Saturday morning service. We met a rabbi who took us to an Orthodox synagogue for a service. This synagogue separated the women and the men.

During the service, another person from our group and I were given the opportunity to go to the altar and say a prayer. While at the altar, my companion held the Torah while I dressed it with the ceremonial cloth that covers it. He then carried the Torah to the arch for it to be stored. I felt very honored to say a prayer in front of such an assembly.

After the service, we were invited to the rabbi's home for a shabbat kiddush (afternoon meal). The meal was absolutely wonderful. We ate all sorts of traditional Jewish foods and had a great conversation with the rabbi about family and togetherness through Judaism. The day concluded with free time for us to experience Jerusalem's nightlife.

The next few days were spent touring the city seeing the historic and religious sites. We went to places such as the entrance of the second temple, the Tower of David, and the Arab market near Jaffa's Gate.

On the final night of the trip we headed back to Tel Aviv, where we went to a restaurant for dinner. There we took pictures and exchanged phone numbers with the friends we had met on the trip. It was a sad time because our group really came together and bonded during the previous days. We then headed for the airport where the people who were going back to America boarded their planes, and the people who extended their stays in Israel went separate ways.

I was met by my brother, who is a medical student at Tel Aviv University. I spent seven more days with him and visited with my Israeli family members (my father's whole side of the family). Seeing my family was a great way to finish a life-inspiring adventure through the country where my roots are and my heritage lies.

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